Read excerpts from Michael’s meticulously kept journal from his trip to Iraq in which he describes the varied places he visited, the people he met and the impressions he formed of a country often called the ‘cradle of civilisation’.
A bright morning. We're gathered outside the Rixos hotel in the town of Duhok. 'Candle in the Wind' was playing in the lifts as I checked in last night, and 'Hey Jude' as I rode down to breakfast. ...
The only place where true Kurds celebrate Nowruz, the New Year festival, is in the town of Akre, in the mountains seventy miles north of Erbil. Though the most spectacular part of the ceremony will...
All being well, we shall be in Baghdad by tonight. And for some romantic reason that thought makes me smile. I think it's the prospect of seeing for real the city at the heart of so many stories.
As we pack up to leave the Al-Zaitoon, I walk across the road to pay my respects to the Euphrates. It flows out of a city rebuilding itself, repairing the damage it sustained. It's frustrating that...
Follow Michael's route through Iraq with our immersive and interactive map as he charts the course of the Tigris, one of the great rivers of the world.
Discover the vivid and varied portrait of a complex country with our Into Iraq gallery.