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Pole to Pole

Day 99: The Masai Mara to Seronera

Michael Palin - Pole to PoleOf course, the day we have to leave our camp is better than any since we arrived - clear skies and a fine sunrise to shave by. A generous traveller's breakfast, including fresh pineapple, melon, porridge and all sorts of cholesterol, and fond farewells to Patrick and his staff, and particularly to Wendy who has been such an excellent and informative companion and guide - giving us just about the right balance of carrot and stick. Addresses are exchanged and family safari holidays promised. Not that we shall be leaving Abercrombie and Kent behind altogether. Kalului and Kabagire have agreed to drive us down through the Serengeti to pick up the train at Dodoma, in Tanzania, over 450 miles to the south. Craig, a young, athletic Kenyan, will be taking over Wendy's role as troubleshooter and animal-spotter. Craig was born and raised in Kenya of white English parents.

'Over here they call us Vanilla Gorillas,' he grinned.

We leave the Hippo Riviera at a quarter to eight, heading south and east towards the Tanzanian border.

Our thirty degree meridian remains elusive, as Lake Victoria, with irregular and unpredictable ferry crossings, blocks our way to the west. The good news is that this morning I exchange the dusty, threadbare map of Africa North-East and Arabia which has accompanied me for seven weeks - since Port Said - for a crisp and pristine Africa Central and South.
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PALIN'S GUIDES

  • Series: Pole to Pole
  • Day: 99
  • Country/sea: Kenya
  • Place: Mara River
  • Book page no: 219

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