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Himalaya

Day 58: Kathmandu to the Chinese border

Michael Palin - HimalayaThis basic hotel, which we're assured is the best in town, is saved by its small, warm and cheerful dining room. Over momos (traditional Tibetan shell-shaped dumplings), stir-fry and Budweiser brewed in Wuhan, we meet up with Nina Huang Fan, our Chinese production assistant from Beijing, Mr Yang, the man the Chinese have sent to keep an eye on us, and Migmar, the soft-spoken young Tibetan, who still seems traumatized by the events on Friendship Bridge.

We're joined by Mr Tse Xiu, who is someone high up in the Foreign Relations Ministry of the Tibetan Autonomous Region. He speaks with quiet authority, but not in English, unfortunately. When his message is relayed to us it's not exactly heartening. Everest Base Camp, which we are scheduled to reach in 48 hours, is presently suffering from strong winds and temperatures down to -25C (-13F) at night. He advises us to make the best of a hot shower tonight, as there will be no more creature comforts for a while.

Have showered in a trickle of tepid water and am writing this with a blanket around me and wondering just how much colder it's going to get.
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PALIN'S GUIDES

  • Series: Himalaya
  • Chapter: Day 58: Kathmandu to the Chinese border
  • Country/sea: Tibet
  • Place: Xangmu
  • Book page no: 137

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