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Hemingway Adventure

Harbor Springs, Michigan

 
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The fine old station building, Harbor Springs, Michigan. No trains any more and none of the dresses fit me either.
Michael Palin - Hemingway AdventureThe railway and the Lake Michigan steamer service enjoyed a symbiotic relationship. In their pre-war heyday they advertised together: ‘Upper Michigan - the Charmed Land Of Hiawatha’, ‘The Northland’s Blue Lakes - Far From Heat And Hay Fever’. But they couldn’t fight aeroplanes and automobiles. Once one died, so did the other and the only way to Walloon Lake now is to take the highway through Petoskey, like everyone else.

Petoskey, ten miles around the bay, is the opposite of Harbor Springs. It has railway tracks but no station. The tracks don’t lead anywhere but they’re relics of a past which Petoskey knows is good for business. Not for nothing was it voted sixteenth Most Beautiful Small Town in America. We’re on a BBC budget so we turn our backs reluctantly on the white columns and elegant terraces of the Perry Hotel and put in at the local Best Western.

A television in the lobby is permanently tuned to the weather. A girl with a back-pack is enthusing to the boy at reception.

‘You know, I got to see that fantastic sunrise this morning!’

‘Oh yeah?’

‘Yeah, they replayed it on the Weather Channel.’
Petoskey, Michigan, USA 
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The public library on Mitchell Street, Petoskey. Here in 1919 Hemingway read the papers, borrowed books and gave speeches about his war experience to delighted female audiences.
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PALIN'S GUIDES

  • Series: Hemingway Adventure
  • Chapter: Harbor Springs, Michigan
  • Country/sea: USA
  • Place: Harbor Springs, Michigan
  • Book page no: 23

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