Pole to Pole
Day 36: Kiev to Cerkassy
'Have you ever been to a sewage treatment plant?' he asks me after close study of the Dnieper. 'Well, this is what it looks like before it goes in.'
It's a pleasantly lazy day, which I think is what we all need. Basil sleeps, Irena sits at the desk with a copy of Longman's Dictionary of Common Errors. Her English is fluent but she's desperately keen to polish up her Cockney rhyming slang.
We pass through a network of small islands and beaches busy with holidaymakers. Hydrofoils, scuttling along the surface like great white cockroaches, drone past at frequent intervals. Barges pass, mostly carrying coal. The captain says that the Dnieper is navigable as far north as Mogilov, about 300 miles from Moscow. Since the Chernobyl catastrophe (as he describes it) he doesn't go north of Kiev. There's nothing to bring down any more.
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